Remember: The form and stake should be no higher than the desired height of your border. Position the plywood in the trench along the guide, and drive a 12”-long 1×2 stake on the outside of it. Place your first plywood where you want to start your edging. Good for either curvy or straight designs, these bendable strips should be as wide your concrete edging’s desired depth (above and below ground) plus an extra inch for gravel in the trench. Use a circular saw to cut 4-foot-by-8-foot plywood sheets lengthwise to create the sides of the concrete forms. Photo: Step 2: Building the Forms Create your forms from strips from ¼”-thick plywood. ![]() Scrape the bottom of the trench even with a flat-head shovel to remove any rises in the soil or lingering dirt clods. When digging, try to keep the sides of the trench as vertical as possible. Your trench should be one inch deeper and two to three inches wider than the size of your concrete edging. Additionally, at least two inches of that depth should be below the surface of the soil this below-grade portion holds the border securely in place. The tops of your concrete edging can either be flush with the surface of the ground or rise a couple of inches above ground level, depending on your desired look. You can go as wide as you like, but the strongest concrete edging is at least 3½ inches wide and deep. Decide what size you’d like to make your edging. ![]() If you prefer a straight border, swap the garden hose for stakes and a string line. Lay out where you want to pour your new edging. Be creative! A meandering concrete border with graceful curves will help define the best aspects of your landscape use a long garden hose to guide this shape. Then, with a little help from Quikrete, we’ll walk you through the four main parts of the process. Go ahead and preview the project in this instructive video from the pros to get an idea of how it’s done. Use your next spare weekend to complete a concrete project that draws more attention to your well-manicured lawn and maintained flower beds. By all accounts, it’s a no-brainer means to boost your curb appeal. Best of all, concrete is affordable (approximately $2 per linear foot for poured concrete edging). It can be molded into curves or corners for a distinct separation between lawns and rock gardens or flowerbeds-by do-it-yourselfers of any skill level! Then there’s there’s durability to consider: Not only is concrete one of the strongest materials around, it’s virtually maintenance-free. While you’ll find a variety of edging materials at your local home improvement center, virtually nothing offers as much creative flexibility and as sharp of appearance as poured concrete. Mowers Edge concrete curbing also cannot be stamped with the aesthetically pleasing designs that are all the rage with homeowners who set up concrete borders.Lawn and garden edging elevates your landscape much like how a frame does a photo: The dramatic emphasis around the perimeter focuses attention on what’s within the borders. Mower’s edge is a lovely curbing technique that, when colored, makes the grass appear framed in a picture. If you are looking for a complete curb solution, the tapered slant or the 3 x 5 square curbing styles are great options for a comprehensive curbing design that can be colored and stamped which also allows for easy grass care. ![]() However, this is not foolproof healthy grass still requires weed whacking. You can safely drive up to and around the curb. This design is precisely what it sounds like lawn-mowing-friendly edging. It is aesthetically pleasing and makes maintaining the garden a breeze. Concrete curbing with a mower’s edge is frequently used for private and public developments. Its unique design can add visual interest to your landscaping. The “Curb Appeal” of Mowers Edge is excellent. It is an efficient lawn/weed barrier because it is 4″ x 6″. The low, non-tripping entry point of the Mowers Edge concrete border type and the high back that keeps mulch where it belongs are great features.
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